Legends of Zakynthos
by Nayia Moysidis CC '11
Image credit: Sarah Gitlin

A ship rests on the sand, its damp wood releasing a musty scent into the heat. Clear waters crash onto the shore nearby. Behind the grand vessel, sharp rocks create a horseshoe-shaped gate, adding lingering hues of gray to the streaks of glittering sand and blue sea. These rolling masses of rock that surround Navagio Bay seclude the region from the rest of the island of Zakynthos, Greece.

Navagio Bay is known by the natives as "Smugglers' Cove." Various versions of the story of its christening can be heard on any given day. The decaying ship, lastly named "The Panagiotis," was built in 1937 in Glasgow.

Many claim that the ship was used to smuggle contraband cigarettes from Turkey to the island in 1980, during a particularly difficult economic period in Greece. A few of the tales state that these cigarettes were intended to reach the Italian Mafia but that, while delivering their cargo, the ship came under the pursuit of the Greek Navy. According to legend, the skies then began to bellow. At this point, the storytellers tend to move their hands in great motions, raise their eyebrows, and lower their voices. A storm ensued. The ship crashed into a cave and washed onto shore, so it was abandoned by the crew and left to embellish the sandy expanse indefinitely.

Today, children climb the wooden planks as their mothers frightfully shout commands ordering them back down. Seagulls screech, mimicking the mothers' cries. Stores sell miniature shipwrecks, providing an incentive for the children to descend and play with smaller boats. Although it provides ample opportunities for storytelling, the historical bay is certainly not the only tourist attraction in Zakynthos.

The island, like many places in Greece, possesses its own mythological background story. Zakynthos is said to have been a grandson of Electra and Zeus. Newcomers often question whether the Greeks still pray to all twelve gods, to which the natives shake their heads and chuckle. Responding in typical, joyful sarcasm, they inform tourists that they pray to a new god every day so that they never have to remember any single god's name. The regular interaction between native and tourist groups can be witnessed throughout Zakynthos. The islanders use limited English and energetic hand gestures to share their history with those who stop to talk, even with those who had no previous intentions of doing so.

Fish is the most popular cuisine on this friendly island. Taverns line the shores, luring hungry beach-goers and tempting passing shoppers with the smells wafting from charcoal ovens. The simplest white tablecloths and oldest crystal glasses shine glamorously. Beams of sunlight reflect off a canvas of the purest ocean water. Kittens roam the stone floors of the outdoor restaurants, stroking customers' legs in pursuit of a piece of fish on which to nibble. Eating at a Greek island tavern involves ordering various plates and placing them at the middle of the table for everyone to try. Typical appetizers include pita bread drizzled with a refined olive oil and authentic sea salt, various types of fried and grilled small fishes that are lifted from the tail and consumed in one bite, pieces of fresh calamari or octopus drizzled in lemon, blocks of bold cheeses next to bowls of fresh salad, and garlic and vegetable-based dips including the world-famous tzatziki.

Before the customers can even finish consuming appetizers, the main courses of larger fishes, lean meats, and poultry arrive to be placed between the original plates. The aroma of fresh bread lingers across the table as people dip the warm slices into the crisp olive oil and place their favorite cheese on top before taking a delicious bite. The taverns remove the dishes only after they feel the customers have spent a sufficient amount of time dining and talking, enjoying their meal to the greatest extent. Thus, meals in Greece tend to take a couple of hours and anything less than the full experience is considered an insult to the tavern owners. At the end of the meal, the plates are cleared and the dining party from the restaurant is treated to dessert. Many of these sweets include honey-drizzled, nutty baklava and pieces of loukoumi (a chewy, sugarcoated candy) alongside tiny steaming cups of powerful Greek coffee. Many taverns will not let families leave without a shot of the potent liquor, Ouzo, to help as a digestive and to seal the experience of an authentic Greek meal.

Zakynthos' beaches are lined with lounge chairs for those who want to relax, but the ocean is alluring in the daytime heat and a serene sight in the cooler evening air. Curious children and brave adults venture into the caves along the shores, using goggles to observe brilliantly decorated fish. The water inside the cave is refreshing. Many natives claim that this liquid has magical powers, reputedly capable of healing the injured and curing the ill. Rowboats take the more courageous explorers to caves miles from the shore where everyone is allowed to leap from the rowboat and swim into the rocky caverns. The coral beneath the surface can be seen many meters deep due to the clarity of the water. This underwater life adds peaceful pinks, delicate purples, and bold greens to the seafloor, making the entire ocean look like a sparkling, jeweled crown.

The native people will question tourists about their experiences as they drive them to the airport and back to the shipping docks. While this might seem like a simple conversational exchange in order to acquire a bigger tip, one should note that tips are not a part of the culture and thus drivers will hand excess money back to the customers. For the most part, the natives ask the questions because they possess a genuine curiosity about how outsiders perceive the island they love. Therefore, a negative review of Zakynthos might disappoint them to the point of resigned silence for the rest of the drive and a refusal to accept the customers' payment once they have reached the desired destination. In Greek culture, pride is the most powerful emotion. In most cases, it even overpowers greed. However, should the answer include positive remarks, or even the smallest compliment of Zakynthos, the driver will oftentimes flash a beaming smile in the rearview mirror, take a deep breath and merrily begin to tell a tale about the greatness of this island and the passion that runs deep in the natives’ salt-water veins.

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